How to surf!
OK so you signed up for surf lessons this summer and after a shaky start, you can finally stand up – yeeeoww! Now that you’ve got your paddling, pop-up and balance sorted, it’s time for the next step… catching green waves out back. But how the heck do you do that when they all seem so (gulp) big ‘n’ scary? Read on for a few tips we’ve learnt over the summer to help you go from beginner to not-so-beginner (coz let’s be honest, it takes awhile to get to ‘intermediate’).OK here goes… catching greenies 101!
#1 – Find The Right Break
It pays to be a little picky when you’re first starting out. Choose waves that break over sand (not rocks, or reef) and are ‘mushy’, meaning they break slowly with lots of white water. Waves that look hollow (like mini barrels) are often too dumpy for beginners. If you’re not yet confident with steering your board, or duck diving, try to find your legs on un-crowded breaks to avoid the dreaded “clash”. Our fave beginner spots? Bondi (particularly North end) and Manly main beach, Byron Bay (The Pass, Wategos, Tallows), The Farm (near Shoalhaven) and most spots up on the Gold Coast, where there are lots of rolling point breaks and long waves. Oh and of course, the very secret spot we’ll be holding the BUF & VGG surf camp at… it’s hidden and just perfect for your first time going green!
#2 – Get Past The Whitewash
Getting smashed by waves as you’re trying to make your way out back is one of the biggest deterrents to new surfers. It takes a lot of energy and can be pretty scary. There are two ways to do it; duck diving, or Eskimo rolling.Duck Diving: this is when you dive under the breaking waves on your way out back, board and all. It’s the easiest way to get out but best performed on a short board, or small 'fish'. Here’s how you do it: try to have as much paddling speed as possible when approaching the wave. At about two feet before making contact with the white water, grab both edges of the surfboard, about halfway between the nose and midpoint of your board. Push all your upper body weight on to your hands and arms until you feel the nose begin to go under. Point your head down and let your body follow. Once your body is just below the surface, bend your front leg and use that knee to push the tail under the wave. Your momentum should thrust you under the quickly passing wave and only require you to be under water for a short time. As the wave passes let the flotation of your board lift you to the surface. Yep, it’s almost as tricky as it sounds but once you get it, it’ll change your surfing life.Eskimo Roll: probably the best method of getting past big waves on a long board or foamy. Simply grab the board, roll it upside down and pull it as close to your body as you can. Hold it tight and wait for the wave to wash overhead.
#3 - Catching A Wave
According to the girls from Venus Goes Gidget, forget the ‘standing up’ part until you’ve practiced paddling on to a wave properly. Figuring out where to catch a wave and how it feels when it finally picks you up can be one of the most important parts of learning to ride ‘greenies’. The other important thing to remember is not to stand up too soon. Start paddling well before the wave reaches you and when you feel it start to give you a little push, paddle super hard until you really feel the momentum really pick you up. Now’s the time to stand up…
#4 - Standing Up!
A few more Gidget tips:
- As soon as you feel the momentum of the surfboard flow faster than your paddling speed, you’re ready to hop up.
- With your hands firmly grasping the rails, push up quickly.
- Simultaneously extend your arms completely and pull your knees quickly up to your chest. Keep your weight centred with just a little slant forward.
- One foot should be roughly on the tail, the other at the mid-point of the board.
- Stay crouched down with a low centre of gravity
- VOILA! You’re up!
#5 – Angles & Turning
Once you’ve got the ‘pop up’ sorted, it’s time to go next level and learn to really ride along the face of the wave, parallel with the beach – you want the longest ride possible! Decide which direction you’ll ride first (right or left), then either aim that way as you begin to paddle (on mushy/small waves), or on bigger/dumper waves, paddle straight but be ready to turn left/right when you hit the first flat trough of the wave. To turn, simply lean your weight gently in the direction you want to go, keeping your centre of gravity low.
#6 – BE PATIENT
All these techniques seem simple but can take serious practice (and a whole lotta patience) to master. The best way to get better at surfing is to get as much TIW as possible. TIW stands for “Time In Water” and you’re gonna need a whole lot of it to get better but we promise, if you do…
#7 – Welcome To The Club!
Once you catch your first real green wave, it’s pretty likely you’ll never look at life the same way again. Surfing glassy green waves is a pinch of Utopia, mixed with a cup of bliss and a big spoon of joy… you just can’t beat the rush!